Model: Installation | Date:2010-05-13


Wood is a natural product containing variations in color, tone and grain. Some variation in color is to be expected in a natural wood floor. Even though our product goes through many inspections before it leaves the plant, it's the customer's and installer's responsibilities for final inspection prior to installation.

You will need tools ready on the job site, like broom, chalk, measuring ruler, stapler, nailer, moisture meter, hammer, glue&sealant, hand-saw, damp cloth, filler,etc.

Floating Installation 
Your installation professional is imperative in your project. It's the responsibility of the installer to determine if the jobsite conditios are environmentally acceptable and that the sub-floor system is workable for the floating installation.
Step  1: Preparation

Floating floors can be  installed over most structurally sound surfaces that meet or exceed local building standards. Any width of floors can be installed in this manner but wider widths are preferred.

1.  plan the floor layout(in width) to avoid having to rip the last row narrow than 1". This may require ripping the first row to assure the last row is at least the minimum width.
2. Allow 1/2" expansion around all vertical obstructions.
3. Avoid walking on the floor during installation as traffic may lossen or break glue joints.
4. Inspect all door casings and wall moldings. Where necessary cut the moldings to allow the wood flooring to slide beneath them.
5. Installation parallel to the longest wall is designed for  best visual effects; however, the floor in each room should be installed perpendicular to reduce sub-floor sagging. And it's recommended to begin installation from the straightest wall.

Step 2: Installing underlayment

1. Install the underlayment in the same direction that the engineered wood flooring is to be installed. Don't overlap joints.

2. Make sure underlayment is cut flush with the walls.

3. Tape all joints using a water resistent tape such as packaging tape, and tape the starting row to the concret floor to prevent movement.

4. Place a mark approximately 18"from the edge of the end walls and the width of the flooring plus 2/1"-2/3" to allow for expansion and tongue. Strike a chalk line through these two points the length of the room to the end walls on top of underlayment. This line is the Walking Line.

Step 3: Installing boards

1. Align the first row with the wall using wedges to holdd the 1/2" expansion in place and to stabilize the product. If the wall is not straight, scribe the first board as necessary to maintain alignment with the Working Line. The installation should begin with the groove side against the wall using the longest boards available.

2. Lay the boards out the length of the room. Make certain that the last and final board in the row will be at least 12" in length. The last un-cut board must allow at least 12" between the board end and the wall. If the board in the row will need to be cut less than 12" in length to complete the row, adjust the board selection accordingly.

3. Begin installation from the right corner with the tongue facing you and the long groove facing the starting wall. Align the first board with the Working Line.

4. If any glue gets on the surface of flooring, wipe  off immediately with a lean damp cloth.
Use wedges or waste material in the expansion gap on the side and end walls to maintain alignment with Working Line. Continue installing in this manner until the first row is completed.

5. Measure and cut to length the final board in the row allowing 1/2" expansion between the end of the board and the end of wall. Apply glue in the groove and install as above. Set the waste end aside for later use.

6. If the cut-off waste from the first row was 12" or longer it can be used as the first board in the new row.
Place a continuous drip of glue along the upper tongue of edge facing you and carefully align the tongue and grooves together and tighten the plank until all joints are snug. Romove any excess glue as before, cut and install the final board in the row.

7. Continue in this manner until the first 4 rows are completed. The four-row area is the base for the balance of the floor installation. Perfect alignment is essential, as any variance will worsen as the flooring proceeds further into the room. Carefully inspect for proper alignment before the glue sets. Adjust as necessary.

8. Proceeds installation and don't walk on the completed floor during installation, as this will break the uncured glue joint. Don't roll the floor for the same reason.
Finish the final row by cutting the boards to fit, always allowing 1/2" expansion space.

Step 4: Installing completion

Clean floor with recommended wood flooring cleaner.
Install or re-install any transitionn pieces that's needed, such as skirtings, quarter round, reducers, T-moldings, or thresholds.
Inspect the floor, filling all minor gaps with the appropriate blended filler.
If the floor is to be covered, use a breathable material such as cardboard. Don't cover with plastic.
To prevent surface damage avoid rolling heavy furniture and appliances on the floor. Use plywood, hardboard or appliance lifts if necessary.
Don't roll the floor as this will break all glue joints.

Staple or Nail Down Installations
Our engineered wood flooring could be installed over wood subfloors using staples or nailing cleats. Please make sure the installer use recommended proper type of flooring stapler or nailer.
Step 1:
You must staple or nail 1"-2" from the ends and every 4"-6" along the edges. This will help insure a satisfactory installation. It's best to set the compressor  or PSI at 80-85 lbs. to keep the staples from going through or breaking the tongues. Improper stapling techniques can cause  squeaks in the floor.

Adjustments may be necessary to provide adequate penetration of the nail or staple into the nail pocket. You want to flush  in the nail pocket. Use a scrap piece of flooring material to set  tools properly before installation.

Before installation of the engineered flooring begins, install a 6 mil polyethylene layer over the subfloor(it's ok for 15 lb.Roofing felt or resin paper to substitute for polyethylene). This will retard moisture from below and may help prevent squeaks. Keep in mind there is no complete moisture barrier system for staple  or nail down installations.

Step 2:
Install the polyethylenne parallel to the direction of the flooring and allow a 3" overhang at the perimeter. Make sure each run of polyethylene overlaps the previous run by 6" or more.

Measure out from the ends of your starting wall 2 3/4" when installing 3 1/2" when installing 3" planks and mark both ends. Where possible lay the flooring at 90 degree angles to the floor joists. Make a chalk line along the starting wall using the marks you made.

Step 3:
Place the boards with the tongue facing away from the wall and along your chalking line. Use brads or small finishing nails to secure the first starter row along the wall edge 1"-2" from the ends and 4"-6" along the side. Counter sink the nails and fill with the filler that blends with the flooring installed. Place nails in a dark grain spot in the board. The base or shoe molding will cover the nails when installed after completion of installation.

Blind nail at a 45 degree angle through the tongues. It will be easier if you are pre-drill the holes in the tongues. Nail 1"-2" from the ends and every 4"-6" along the sides. It will be necessary to blind nail in next 2 rows.

Continue the installation using an engineered wood flooring stapler, using staples or nails recommended. Nail or staple the flooring 1"-2" from the ends and every 4"-6" along the edge tongues.

Step 4:

Install the proper trim molding at the doorways to achieve the transition and along the walls to cover the edges of any gaps along the wall  due to irreglarity.